India is a diverse country with so much to explore and discover. It’s a mystical place, a raw and awakening place for all of your senses. You could travel 50km outside of a city and already experience a different culture, different language, different food and different mode de vie.

I spent a few months exploring this vast nation, here are my 74 days of train travel around India.

 

Day 1-4 : New Delhi

Four days is a long time if you don’t know anyone living local. I met with my colleagues based in the New Delhi office of my previous company – really great to put faces to names.

I also caught up with my Couchsurfing host from France who happened to be studying in New Delhi! It’s a small world after all.

Day 5-7 : New Delhi to Mathura

I timed my arrival into India for this event in particular. The Holi Festival is a celebration of colour, love and life. Perhaps we were in the thick of it (and I am being very polite when I say that), but Mathura and Vrindawan should best be avoided by tourists expecting colourful fun. Instead we had mud and dirty puddle water thrown at us (and everyone else too) – the intensity was almost unbearable.

Day 8-9 : New Delhi

Day 10 : New Delhi to Agra

There is no need to stay in Agra, you can take a one-day tour from New Delhi quite easily and at a reasonable price. It will take you to all the main monuments.

Day 11 : New Delhi

Take a day to recover here.

Day 12-13 : New Delhi to Amritsar

Now we head into the Punjab state up to Amritsar, the religious capital for the Sikhs. Nearby is the national borders between India and Pakistan – there is a performance at the Wagah Border daily, a spectacular display of each country’s pride and strength.

 

Day 14-15 : Amritsar to Chandigarh

Purportedly, the best planned city in India. Having been a military training zone prior to its residential days, law enforcement is strict here and drivers (usually) stick to the road rules!

Not far from here is the Birthplace of the Baghavad Gita, a discourse delivered by Lord Krishna. The temples and sacred lakes are quite beautiful.

 

Day 16-18 : Chandigarh to Shimla

Bring warm clothes! The foothill station was the one-time Summer capital during British Rule. The heritage toy train is still in operation and is a great way to see the mountains and the hill-region (though it takes five hours compared to a two hour bus).

 

Day 19-22 : Shimla to Rishikesh

A holy city that was made famous by The Beatles during their stay at a yoga ashram during their heyday. ts still there, but has since been abandoned – though it is worth a visit to explore the dilapidated buildings.

Want to get in touch with your more spiritual side? Then take a yoga retreat here, the yoga ashrams operate by donation (even their suggested donation is very affordable) and you are provided a private apartment and all your food  + yoga classes daily.

I loved it here so much. The whitewater river rafting was incredible and the water was revitalising and crisp.

 

Day 23-24 : Rishikesh to Jim Corbett Tiger Reserve

On my birthday, I decided to go on a Tiger Safari. Unfortunately it is very rare to see a tiger on one of these safaris – there are just so many jeeps driving around the park at any one time.

We did however, see many other wild fauna which was amazing!

 

Day 25 : Jim Corbett National Park to Haridwar

Another very sacred city, here you’ll find many temples and scams galore!

 

Day 26-27 : Haridwar to Varanasi

The holiest of all the cities in India and probably the oldest continuously inhabited city in the world. The eastern bank of the River Ganges is an open flood plain, which the government has thankfully protected from any major developments. So you have the ancient city overlooking the open plains as the sun rises – it’s really quite a sight to behold.

 

DAy 28-30 : Varanasi to Khajuraho

This city of temples was left untouched by the path of destruction left by the Moghuls – having been located so far from the main routes, no wonder they didn’t bother to come here.

The Temple Complex was once a religious capital of the local Indian Kingdom – largely preserved, many carvings on the exterior of the temples depict scenes from the kama sutra.

 

Day 31-32 : Khajuraho to Jaipur

The (not so) Pink City. Its hot and dusty. If you like sightseeing, there are plenty of forts, palaces and temples to explore here.

Apparently the best Lassi in India is sold here at Lassiwala – sadly, it was closed on the day I went! 🙁

 

Day 33-35 : Jaipur to Jaisalmer

The desert, seemingly never-ending plains and bulges of sand. Take yourself on a camel safari and camp overnight in the sand dunes under the stars. You’ll have your own experience, but I simply loved the serenity of being in the middle of nowhere and the almost sublime sensation of stillness and solitude.

 

Day 36 : Jaisalmer to Pushkar

Pushkar is a holy city built around a sacred lake. Do try to find the man giving cosmic head massages – he directs the energy of the universe into your soul.

 

Day 37-39 : Pushkar to Udaipur

This is the city of lakes, so many closed bodies of water are plotted around this place.

Day 40 – 43 : Udaipur to Aurangabad

There are two main things to see and do here – Ajanta Caves and Ellora Caves. Both are archaeologically significant as there are enormous and ornate temples carved from the rock. You’ll need at least a day for each site (they are not near each other).

Day 44 : Aurangabad to Mumbai

Where do most Indians aspire to live and work? The answer is Mumbai. A populous city displaying a stark contrast between old and modern – the slums right next to and beneath rising skyscrapers worth billions.

Also, the Elephanta Caves are just a short one hour ferry ride away.

Day 45 : Mumbai to Goa (Candolim Beach)

Love the beach? You’ll love Goa. There’s such a relaxed feeling here, you’re far removed from the craziness of Delhi or Mumbai.

 

Day 46-48 : Goa (Candolim Beach) to Hampi

The famous Stone Car is the main monument to see in this town, but the bouldered landscape is what you really want to see. Find yourself the highest point you can find and wait for the sunbursting sunset.

 

Day 49-51 : Hampi to Goa (Agonda Beach)

In the low season, you basically have the entire beach to yourself. And you can stay right on the beach, with the sand right at your doorstep for a very, very, very low price.

Day 52 : Goa (Agonda Beach) to Kochi (Ernakulam)

Enter Kerala. We no longer speak Hindi here, but English is more prevalent. In fact, this state has the highest literacy rate in the country!

Go down to the docks and watch the fisherman in action – they are still using traditional netting methods to catch the fish.

 

Day 53 : Kochi (Ernakulam) to Alleppey (Alappuzha)

The Backwaters of Kerala are a place full of natural beauty – many tour operators take chartered boats up and down, but you can take the public ferries that cost only 15Rs each way.

Day 54-55 : Alleppey (Alappuzha) to Munnar

Ever seen rolling hills so green and lush, covered only with bushes of tea? The climate is cooler and lends to comfortable hikes around the hills that abound this area. You may even spot some wild elephants!

 

Day 56-57 : Munnar to Varkala

The beautiful cliffs that dive vertically into the turquoise sea beneath, the clean sandy beaches permit gentle frolicking in the pleasantly tempered sea waves licking against the shore.

 

Day 58-62 : Varkala to Madurai

I spent some time here to regroup and plan ahead for the next phase of my travels – but there are also many sightseeing opportunities – such as the large temple complex Aman Meenakshi Temple.

 

Day 63-68 : Madurai to New Delhi

Between Madurai and Delhi are many more places to explore: Pondicherry, Chennai, etc.

 

Day 69 – 72 : New Delhi to Lucknow

Lucknow is covered with Moghul architecture, the largest of which is the Bara Imambara which houses a complex labyrinthine ventilation system – fun to explore solo, but more practical with a guide.

 

Day 73 – 74 : Lucknow to Calcutta (Kolkata)

One of the most inexpensive cities in India, this place is a seething mass of manual labourers. Also, one of the cheapest places in India to fly international into Asia – the airport is pretty nice, too.